How to Spot and Treat Common Betta Fish Diseases

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Bluel beta fish swimming in tankKeeping a Betta fish is one of the more colorful experiences in the fish keeping world but it can also be particularly challenging. Unlike other pets, keeping a Betta fish can be frustrating because your fish cannot communicate its needs. There are a number of common Betta fish diseases. Find out how they can be identified and what should be done to treat them. Read on to find out what signs you should be looking out for to ensure that your Betta fish does not get sick.

Timing is Everything

There are a wide variety of Betta fish diseases and while it may seem to the untrained eye that the symptoms of these diseases are similar, often times they can be distinguished when you know what you are looking for. Becoming educated in regards to the health of your Betta is one of the biggest steps that you must take in order to ensure that your fish remains healthy. Something else that is just as crucial however, is timing. Knowing what to look for when your Betta fish is feeling under the weather is important but so too is having the appropriate medications on hand in order to treat your Betta as soon as possible. Many of the common Betta fish diseases are fast-moving and it is important that once you ascertain that your Betta is in need of medical care, that you have the appropriate treatment on hand in order to stop the progression of the disease in question. Timing is everything when it comes to treating any Betta fish disease.

Feel free to read the entire article or jump to the section below:

Betta Fish First Aid Kit | Betta Fish TreatmentsRecognizing Signs of a Sick Betta FishIdentifying Common Betta Fish Diseases | Prevention

Create Your Betta Fish First Aid Kit

Like most pet owners you are likely to already be attached to your Betta fish which means that you are prepared to care for it like you would any other pet, this means that you should always have a first aid kit handy for your fish. It may sound absurd to create a first aid kit for a Betta fish but the truth of the matter is that the medications most often required to treat Betta fish diseases are not available in most pet stores. If the time comes that your Betta fish is ill we have already discussed the importance of timing and this means that mail order medication for your fish’s treatment may take too long to arrive in order to treat your fish before it expires. As a responsible Betta fish owner you should always have a basic first aid kit available to treat the most common Betta fish diseases.

How to Choose the Best Betta Fish Tank

What Should Be Included in a Betta First Aid Kit?

To make things simple a number of Betta fish experts actually sell premade Betta fish first aid kits that can be purchased online; however, if you choose to put together your own first aid kit you should think about including the following products:

BettaZing or Bettafix

Editor’s Pick

BettaZing and BettaFix are anti-parasitic, anti-fungal and anti-protozoan medications that are great when used as a preventative medication to prevent the development of clamped fins or velvet fins. This medication should be applied as a preventative measure any time you acclimate a Betta to a new environment or anytime you add a new Betta fish to your tank.



Editor’s Pick
Kanaplex Branded KanamycinKanaplex Branded Kanamycin

Most top of the line fish stores will carry Kanamycin, an antibiotic that is most commonly used for more serious bacterial infections that your Betta fish may contract.


Tetracyclin is available from a number of pet stores and is also used as an antibiotic to treat bacterial infections. Where Kanamycin is used to treat more serious bacterial infections, Tetracyclin is used more often for less serious bacterial infections.


Ampicillin is another antibiotic worth carrying in your Betta fish first aid kit and is available in specialty fish stores as well as online. Ampicillin is used for gram positive infections, some gram negative infections and pop-eye.

Jungle Fungus Eliminator

Editor’s Pick
Jungle Fungus ClearJungle Fungus Clear

Jungle Fungus Eliminator is an anti-fungal treatment that can be purchased online or from fish specialty stores. This treatment is generally used for a number of fungus infections and is particularly useful to keep on hand for any Betta fish owner.

Maracin 1 and Maracin 2

Maracin 1 and Maracin 2 come in hard tablet form and are both anti-fungal and antibiotic treatments. These medications are utilized when your Betta fish has contracted a mild infection like fin rot but they are not as effective as some of the other medications listed when it comes to the more serious infections.

How to Treat a Sick Betta Fish

Chris Simms from Aquatic Central in San Francisco, CA explains how to treat a sick Betta fish. You need to identify the illness (fungal ailment) and administer a treatment (curing the fungus).

Recognizing Signs of a Sick Betta Fish

Green betta fish swimmingThe first step in treating any Betta fish disease is to recognize when a Betta fish is sick, this can be particularly difficult due to the limited communication that Betta fish can provide to their owners. There are, however, behaviors that healthy Betta fish exhibit and the first sign of a potentially sick Betta fish is a change in these behaviors. Below are some signs that you should watch for that may suggest a sick Betta fish:

  • A fish that stays at the surface of the water in the corner of its tank.
  • A fish that lies at the bottom of the tank and only comes to the surface to breathe.
  • A fish that does not eat, does not show an “excited” reaction to being fed or a fish that spits out its food. It should be noted that some Betta fish pellet food can come in pellets that may be too large for your Betta fish, a healthy Betta may spit these out and wait for them to become soggy before trying to consume them a second time – this does not indicate a sick fish.
  • A fish that appears to have “lost” its color or appears to be a much less vibrant colorful shade.
  • A fish that appears to be scratching itself by rubbing against items in its tank.
  • A fish that appears to have unusual sores or markings on its body that were not present previously.
  • A fish whose tail or fins are no longer spread out and have the appearance of being unhealthy, closed or clumped together.
  • A fish with gills that do not close completely due to inflammation, inflammation can also cause the gills to appear red in color.
  • Swollen or protruding eyes.
  • A swollen stomach or “hollow” appearing stomach.
  • Raised scales that give your Betta the appearance of having a prickly texture.

A Betta fish that exhibits any of these signs should always be isolated from any other fish if it is being kept in a community aquarium because a number of common Betta fish diseases can be easily communicated from one fish to another. Having a disease pass from one fish to another is not only unfortunate for the fish involved and more expensive to treat but it is also a way for the disease to be contracted a second time by a fish that has already been effectively treated. If you have a Betta fish that has become ill that is kept in a community tank make sure that you do keep an eye on other fish in the tank for any signs of the disease in question being contracted by them.

ALWAYS wash your hands with an antibacterial soap if you handle a fish that has any type of illness or disease to ensure that you do not spread the disease from one fish to another – not to mention that this is the sanitary thing to do whenever you handle your fish.

Identifying Common Betta Fish Diseases

Only a licensed veterinarian or fish expert can identify particular Betta fish diseases accurately in order to treat them; however, a number of Betta fish diseases are so common that they can be readily identified by someone who has experienced them before or knows what to look for. With that said however, this information should not be taken as professional advice or utilized for diagnosis to treat a sick Betta fish.

Fin Rot and Tail Rot

Fin rot and tail rot are often classified together however, they may or may not both occur together. Tail or fin rot tend to be contracted by a Betta fish through contact with dirty water so it is important to ensure that you maintain a clean and healthy Betta fish tank. Fortunately for the Betta fish that contracts tail or fin rot damage done to the fins or tail is repairable if treatment is issued in a timely manner and fin and tail tissue will regrow (although it may not be as resplendent as it previously was.) A fish with fin or tail rot will exhibit a variety of symptoms but the most obvious are clumped fins or tail tissue or fin or tail tissue that appears to be disintegrating and disappearing little by little. This type of Betta fish disease should be treated with Ampicillin or Tetracycline and your Betta fish tank should be thoroughly cleaned and clean water should be used in the new tank. Ensure to treat the new water before filling the tank. A fungus eliminator should also be utilized in the new tank to ensure that your Betta begins recovery. It is important to be consistent with tank cleaning and water change when treating fin or tail rot, this should be done once every three days or so with medication being added with each water change. Once your Betta fish no longer shows signs of losing tissue on their tail or fins and begins to show signs of new growth you can resume a normal tank cleaning schedule.


Ich may sound funny but there is nothing funny about this parasite! This parasite is most commonly contracted by your fish through frozen live food and most commonly presents as small white dots on your fish’s body, head, tail and fins. Ich can be prevented by ensuring that you add a small amount of aquarium salt and Aquarisol to your Betta fish tank when maintaining your tank; however, if your fish does contract this parasite it should be treated quickly. Fishes with ich not only present with small white dots but they also appear to be scratching themselves against items in the tank and may become less active than normal. Ich is an extremely contagious parasite and if one fish in a community tank has it there is an extremely high likelihood that other fish have it or will develop it so you should always treat the entire tank. Ich is most commonly treated by raising the temperature of the Betta fish tank; however, this can only be successfully done in tanks lager than 5 gallons since smaller tanks can quickly overheat killing your Betta fish. In larger tanks, temperatures of 85 degrees will quickly kill off the ich parasite. If heating the tank is not an option because of a smaller tank you should completely clean your tank, replace all water in the tank and treat with Aquarisol and aquarium salt. It is also commonly recommended to put your Betta fish in a holding container after cleaning the smaller tank and raising the temperature of the water to 85 degrees to kill any remaining parasites without risking overheating your Betta fish.

Fungal Infections

Fungus is common in tanks that are not treated with salt and Aquarisol when water is added. Once a single fish in a community tank contracts a fungal infection there is a high likelihood that another fish may also contract the fungal infection so it should be treated quickly when spotted. Betta fish that have fungal infections can appear to be a much more pale hue of their normal color, they may not be as active as they usually are and their fins may have a clumped appearance. A fish with a fungal infection can have patches of a white cotton-like appearance on their body. Eliminating fungus should begin with a full water change and treatment of the new water with a fungus eliminator, this type of medication will cause the water to change to a gold-like color, this is normal. Every three days the water in the tank should be replaced and a new dose of fungus eliminator should be administered. Once all visible signs of the fungal infection have disappeared ensure that you treat your tank with BettaZing or Bettamax to treat any trace signs of the fungal infection that may remain.


Popeye is one of the more noticeable diseases in Betta fish because as its name suggests, a fish with this disease will appear to have one or both eyes protruding from the head. Most commonly popeye develops from dirty tank water because it is a bacterial infection; however, popeye can also be the result of a much more serious illness. Most commonly when popeye does not respond to treatment it is a symptom of a much more serious disease like tuberculosis which is incurable and your Betta fish will be unable to survive. For the fish that has contracted popeye as a result of dirty tank water however, treatment can quickly remedy the bulging eyes that result from this disease. Treatment for popeye should be immediate in order to prevent any long-term damage or loss of sight in your fish. To treat popeye clean your tank and do a complete water change and add Ampicillin to the clean water. Clean water should be changed every three days and medication should continue to be added until one week after your fish’s popeye symptoms disappear.

Advanced Fin and Body Rot

Advanced fin and body rot is a case of regular fin rot that goes on for far too long. When regular fin rot is not treated or when it progresses extremely quickly it can be extremely difficult to stop. A fish with this disease will experience a loss of fin and body tissue as the rot progresses. Once the rot progresses on to body tissues there is very little that you can do to help your fish as the bacteria quickly eats your fish alive. In cases of extreme fin or body rot you may begin to see small bones protruding from your fish’s body. If the affected fish is not treated in time they will die quickly but this death likely causes the fish to suffer a lot of pain. It is occasionally possible to control the progress of advanced rot and the fish can continue to live while being treated.

Stopping advanced fin and body rot is difficult and you will need to completely change your fish’s water and combine a number of medications designed to treat fin rot. In cases of severe rot you may want to over medicate the water and then continue cleaning your fish’s water every three days adding new medication each time. Once your fish shows new growth in the fins and on the body you can switch to a medication designed to prevent bacteria from growing in the water again.


Velvet is a parasite that can be prevented completely by adding aquarium salt and water conditioner to your fish’s tank. Velvet is particularly contagious and if you have shared aquarium nets between tanks and have a case of velvet, you will want to ensure that you treat all of your fish for velvet. Velvet is completely treatable but it can be difficult to see in your fish. In order to check your fish for velvet you will want to shine a flashlight on your betta and if they have velvet you will see a fine mist over their body that looks gold or rusty in color. Betta fish that have velvet will clamp their fins to their body, will lose its color, will not eat normally and they will scratch against the gravel of the tank.

Velvet is a parasite and it can be treated. If you have a number of fish in a tank and one shows signs of velvet, it is best to treat all of the fish due to how contagious velvet is. A medication called BettaZing is effective at eliminating velvet completely.


Dropsy is seen often in betta fish and it is particularly fatal. Dropsy is most often contracted through the feeding of live food. Not a lot is known about dropsy other than the fact that it comes from feeding contaminated food. A betta fish with dropsy will present with raised scales as a result of a buildup of fluid underneath the fish’s scales. The buildup of fluid is the result of kidney failure and just as with any animal, once the betta fish’s kidneys fail, the fish will die. The bacteria that cause dropsy are very contagious and it is these bacteria that cause kidney failure. Spotting dropsy in your betta fish is relatively easy, your fish will have puffed out scales that look similar to pine cones and it may also appear to have a big bloated stomach.

There really is no known cure for dropsy but a good preventative is to avoid feeding worms to bettas. It is important if you have a betta that presents with dropsy, that you keep it away from other fish.

Swim Bladder Disorder

Swim bladder disorder is not contagious but it is a common illness among betta fish that comes as the result of overfeeding. Young bettas and double tailed bettas are susceptible to this illness. The swim bladder of the fish is located between the belly and the spine of the fish. When the betta fish has a swim bladder that is too short they will not be able to swim horizontally. When a betta fish has a swim bladder that is swollen they will float on one side. Many times when fish have shorter swim bladders they will prefer to lie at the bottom of the tank because swimming is too difficult.

A betta fish with a swim bladder disorder can recover by themselves but it is also important to pay attention to how much food you are feeding your fish. You should know that swim bladder disorder does not hurt the fish and at any point it can recover from this condition so you should not kill your fish out of “mercy.”

External Parasites

It is possible for a betta fish to contract external parasites in the pet store or from the foot that they are being fed or from other fish being introduced to the tank. It is usually possible to see parasites by looking closely at your fish. In the case of some parasites like anchor worms, you will have no problem spotting them. A fish that has external parasites will show symptoms of needing to scratch itself against anything it can find and it will not behave as it normally would showing signs of being uncomfortable in its tank.

If your betta fish shows signs of external parasites you will want to change out 70% of your fish tank’s water. Changing out a percentage of your fish’s water will help to reduce the population of the parasites and their eggs but it will not remove them all completely so it is important to treat the remaining water. After replenishing the water you will want to treat it with BettaZing, a product designed to clean the water and kill the remaining parasites and their eggs.

Betta Fish First Aid Kit Infographic

This infographic made by The Aquarium Guide summarizes many of the the items above as well as some additinonal solutions for how to help with your Betta’s diseases.

Betta Fish First Aid Kit Infographic

The Importance of Prevention

Prevention is the most important part of Betta fish diseases because prevention is much easier than treating or trying to cure Betta fish diseases. Most Betta fish diseases require a large amount of work in order to save your Betta fish from succumbing to the disease that they have contracted, most often this involves cleaning the tank and replacing your Betta’s water once every three days in addition to the application of medication. In most cases Betta fish diseases are easily preventable by maintaining a clean tank and feeding a healthy diet. There are, however, occasions where a Betta fish is purchased with a pre-existing disease or condition and in this case treatment is required in addition to taking preventative measures in the future. It is important to note that while prevention is the preferred method of “treatment” it is not always possible but purchasing a Betta fish with a pre-existing condition does not mean that your fish is doomed to die. As it has already been mentioned, the majority of these diseases are completely curable when treated appropriately and often times purchasing the fish that appears to have a pre-existing disease may be the only chance it has at survival. If you feel up to the challenge of Betta fish first aid, why not give a sick Betta a chance and put your fish doctoring skills to work!

Learn more Betta fish facts and how to choose the right aquarium for your Betta fish.

Is your Betta fish showing signs of sickness?

Maybe someone else’s Betta is experiencing similar symptom’s and you can get answers and advice below. NOTE: While we have provided some information about common illnesses, we are not a certified fish doctor, so if you are experiencing issues with your Betta fish please contact your local pet store or seek professional help.

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to and affiliated sites.
Amy grew up in England and in the early 1990's moved to North Carolina where she completed a bachelors degree in Psychology in 2001. Amy's personal interest in writing was sparked by her love of reading fiction and her creative writing hobby. Amy is currently self employed as a freelance writer and web designer. When she is not working Amy can be found curled up with a good book and her black Labrador, Jet.

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I did a tank change when we got new guppies for our male betta. we transferred our female betta from a divided tank from the male to her own tank. I treated the water like to the petstore instructed. my female betta now has white stuff all over her and she is breathing hard at the bottom. not swimming around or active like normal. she comes up to the surface to get air and then sinks back down. I’m going to try to leave work early and take her to the petstore to see what I can do for her. any ideas?
Desiree Crance
I have a question I have had my baby Walter for a year now and fed him when supposed to and I came home and his body is peeling what am I supposed to do
William Farrell
I forgot to add, his color is normal and his body always looks wet. His gills don’t seem to be struggling
William Farrell
I have had a male betta for about a year. For almost all of that time he was in a 1 gal bowl and was fine. About a month ago I put him in a 4 gal bowl with some plants at the bottom, a floating water lettuce and a mystery snail. He was the fine for about 3 weeks. Four days ago he was fine. He came up to me when he saw me, he ate eagerly and he swam normally. The next day, I found him laying on the water lettuce, about half of his body was out of the water. I put him in the water and he got back on to the water lettuce. That is how he has been for 3 days, except for when I slide him into the water. When he is in the water, he swims rapidly from side to side, before squirming back onto the water lettuce. He also does not eat. The fish guy I bought him from has no idea what is wrong, he has never seen this behavior in his fish before.
My betta fish, Freddy was doing perfectly fine. But now he seems less excited about food, and is staying at the top more often. He seems to have VERY TINy white specks on him and under his mouth area is kind of green. He is a blue and red halfmoon betta fish. Please help, he is my 5th betta fish
Marissa Santos
Have you tried treating him for Ich?
My male veiltail beta fish has been a bit problematic since I got him, however now he has something I can’t figure out what it is. He already started to get minor split fins, but now he has a few peices of fins that are completely white. Not only that but the top fin on his back is completely white, and the area of his body that the fin is on is pale red, which is super noticeable because he’s dark blue. I’m not sure what to do, I’ve only had him for 5 months and I’d like him to live his few years out fully. Yknow? I just don’t want him to die so soon. If anyone knows what this is and how to treat it please let me know.
Eeeew!My beta has these like brown hairs growing out the bottom where it poops from. Also, this growth has made the hole like 10 times bigger. It’s really gross. He’s not eating and being very chill. I tried Googling it many different ways but nothing comes up??? I have dealt with all the regular diseases but have never come across this!?
Reasearch Callamanus worms. It’s an internal parasite.
I bought my betta, Apollo last night. He does sit on the bottom quite frequently and hardly ever gets up. Whenever he attempts to do so, he struggles and makes it halfway up. Apollo also hasn’t eaten at all and breathes like he’s gasping. He is my third betta, but the first to do something like this. I’m worried he won’t last long. It would be great if someone could give me some advice!
Melissa Monsalve
My fish is doing the same thing. And I just got him. How’s Apollo doing?? Did he survive? What did you do to help?
Misela Silva
Please help
Misela Silva
I have two veiltail bettas and just put them in a 10 gallon tank and i put a divider between them and just yesterday my son said that the have white spots and i am worried…..i clean my tanks every other week and feed them twice a day just like all the other fish i have….please
White spots usually mean Ick. There are a few different medicines you can use that most fish stores carry. Not something hard to treat.
I just got my young femal veiltale betta and she’s got these strange black dots on her fins. I’m not sure if it’s her natural color/pattern, or some weird type of fin rot.
I bought my betta just over a week ago and had him originally in a gallon bowl. He is now in a 3 gallon filtered and heated tank. He started showing signs of fin rot (dark grey tips on his tail and dorsal fin) his tail now has a chunk out. I have been treating him with bettafix (taking about a gallon out and replacing it with new conditioned water before adding more bettafix) I have ordered in aquarium salt and plan on using it after the betta fixs one week is done. Is there anything else I should be doing? His plants are silk.
We have a betta which we got last August (2017). 2 months after getting him, we moved into a new house. He’s remained in the same 2.5 gallon tank with a filter. About a month after we moved, he started developing red spots on the top of his head which eventually spread to his fins and other parts of his body. His activity level dropped dramatically for a while but after a thorough tank cleaning and continued use of betta fix, his activity level has increased. The red areas seem to be turning white now. Not sure if we should be using antibiotics, but I can’t seem to find anything that relates to the red stuff. Anyone know what it might be?
Master Richie
Awe that’s dropsy! Next his scales will raise. It’s a sad incurable disease…!
One of my bettas has always hung out out at the bottom of his tank but otherwise been fine. He recently sinks a lite bit and is tail is angle down when he swims up. Looks like he needs to balance on plants and decor. He is normal otherwise. Comes up for food and gets excited. I have two bettas in a divided tank. The other one had the same problem. I treated theit water with Melafix. One is swimming normal again but the other is not. What do you think is going on and how can I fix it. I have had lots of bettas most live on average 1.5 to 2 years. Some seem to recovery from illnes better than others. Also when I do larger water changes I add some aquarium salt.
Bonus question: my healthy betta has turned white all but his tail. He is usually bright red. No sign of parasites or damage to fins. He is getting old but he is one of the most social bettas I have had and has been really easy to heal when sick. I love my boys help me out!
Sheila Hauersperger
I am babysitting my college age daughter’s betta fish between Thanksgiving and Christmas. His behavior has not changed any. Very active, feeds well, vibrant blue color. I’m concerned about what appears to be a line of scales peeling off between his head and his body, making his head almost black and his body blue. I’ve googled pictures of bettas that have this coloration but there seems to be a scale’s edge raised up so i’m more inclined to think perhaps this is a problem. Any thoughts?
Master fishie
Sounds like dropsy, sorry! It’s incurable and the poor beta fish suffers then dies.
Ok I don’t even know where to go, I’ve been reading on bunch of stuff about Bettas. I’ve had mine for about 2 years or so. It has been doing fine up until about a week or two ago. The tank is about a gallon. Only has a heater. Sometimes I don’t think it’s working. Just started noticing that he’s acting strange. His scales are kind protruding. He’s been hanging on the bottom more often. The tank started getting this white filmsy stuff all over, on the glass wall, the live plant and just started getting on his face like it’s stuck to his eye or something. The other day I took a tweezer and just grab the white filmsy stuff off and he shook it off but then he got it stuck on his face again. I keep wiping the white stuff off but then it keeps coming back. Is he dying??? I could go on and on, but I don’t know what to do. Is it too late??
Master Fishie
Sorry to hear! It sounds like Dropsy which is an incurable and slow death! It always saddens me.
vernae lynch
My betta has been sitting at the bottom of the tank recently,his color has been looking really dull too. One thing I know for sure is that he has popeye. he also has his back fins clumped together and he has these little black spots on him now too. He still eats normally and comes up for air to. I’ve been using the regular betta safe water conditioner and aquarium salt too( I use this because he had finn rot awhile back). does anyone know whats wrong with my betta
My Beta is two years old, and is normally very active and happy. However, he began laying at the bottom of his tank two days ago, and I noticed a lump on his side, very close to his tail fin, today. Is this swim bladder or does he have a bacteria? He looks just miserable, and is laying on his side at the bottom of the tank.
That’s swim bladder not bacteria
Has anyone ever had a betta that looked like it had SBD did not respond to treatment,salts , salt dip & cooked pea swims erraticly whlie staying at the top showing no other signs while this could be dropy or parasites I am using API General Cure for that I have tried betta fix before that, put him in a new clean tank while I cycle the water in the other ( I am getting a bubblier,am getting a heater) He is 3 or 4 I also read about fish that age sleeping on one side is this true?
Hi, I have a blue male betta named David- I got him in March 2017, it’s now November and I haven’t had any problems until now. For a little while he was in a 1.5 gal tank, then he seemed pretty sad so I moved him to a 2.0 with a filter and it’s been great. I feed him pellets in the morning and dried bloodworms in the afternoon- hasn’t lost/gained any weight, and I change the water about twice a month (usually more). Lately I noticed the edges of his gills are slightly inflamed, though not jutting out. The edges of his fins also seem a little bit frayed, for lack of a better word. He’s still swimming around and eating fine. Any ideas?
Ok so I picked up this little guy from wal-mart yesterday because he looked pretty awful (sitting on the bottom of the container, fins all limp, amd he’s super faded and has dark, protruding gills) and long story short I couldn’t bring myself to leave him there. So I brought him home and got him in a nice new tank amd everything and he’s perked up quite a bit which is good, but I’m just wondering if there’s any supplements or anything I can give him to help him get healthier? I’m really worried about his gills because they’re sticking out a lot like he can’t close them all the way. It’s been like 10 years since I’ve had a betta fish around and google is super inconclusive, so any advice is appreciated cause I’m rooting for him to live.
i believe it may be inflammation. There is an explanation of it on this website, just above the comments
My betta fish,Lettuce, Has a big tank, (about 6 gallons) and a little plastic plant and a castle figurine for fish i got at petsmart. (I washed both items off without using soap before putting them in the tank.) I got him around april of 2017 ( it’s late october in 2017 currently.) and he has never had ANY problems at ALL. I feed him 4 pieces of food a day, 2 at day and 2 at night and he has never lost a huge amount of weight or gained a huge amount of weight.I clean his tank very well twice a month, Or whenever i see alot of food that floated to the bottom of the tank when he wasnt quick enough to catch it.He has a medium sized lump under his gills and has a hard time swimming. I plan to try to feed him a bit less and if i do i will feed him a little bit of shelled pea (as thats what most websites are saying to do.) But i am very scared of him dying. Can somebody please,please add more suggestions?!! Ive been researching for hours and making plans to visit petsmart for water tests and other fish vets so they can help me just for this one little betta fish. If it helps, He lives alone in his tank. Never have and never will have another fish with him.
Did anyone respond to your posting? Am having the same problem. My betta actually completely lies down on her side on top of the gravel. She looks healthy but is not at active as she us to be. I decide to start feeding her worms and watching much I feeding her. I just started this a few days ago, planning on changing her water twice a week. Don’t know what else to do.

Let me know if your little guy recovered.

Thank you.

My female baby beta named TT has had some fin rot and now it looks to be a hole on the side of her that is rotted the most. I’m using bettafix and following the directions on the label, but she doesn’t seem to be doing as well as I hoped. Does she have a chance of living?
Yes but the betta fix has 0.2 clove oil in it trash it (clove oil is use to kill fish/put them to sleep)now!! Buy some freash water aquarium salt(API) and read the instructions and your betta well be so much better with in 7 days…I use spring water in gallon jug from wal mart and treat it with betta water conditioner by (API).
what i’m reading is just the opposite!
Hi all, I have a male betta, and am a new fish owner so have been reading literature on common betta diseases/Illnesses, my betta has done some tank moving recently and now he’s under better lighting and in a magnified curved tank, I’ve noticed 2 silver streaks either side of his head, one on the outer edge of his gills and one slightly forward of this. Is this anything to be alarmed about, I read this could be amonia scaring?
What medications will need to be used if you Betta fish has Advanced Fin and body rot