How To Spot And Treat Common Betta Fish Diseases

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Bluel beta fish swimming in tankKeeping a Betta fish is one of the more colorful experiences in the fish keeping world but it can also be particularly challenging. Unlike other pets, keeping a Betta fish can be frustrating because your fish cannot communicate its needs.

There are a number of common Betta fish diseases. Find out how they can be identified and what should be done to treat them.

Timing Is Everything

There are a wide variety of Betta fish diseases and while it may seem to the untrained eye that the symptoms of these diseases are similar, often times they can be distinguished when you know what you are looking for. Becoming educated in regards to the health of your Betta is one of the biggest steps that you must take in order to ensure that your fish remains healthy.

Something else that is just as crucial however, is timing. Knowing what to look for when your Betta fish is feeling under the weather is important but so too is having the appropriate medications on hand in order to treat your Betta as soon as possible. Many of the common Betta fish diseases are fast-moving and it is important that once you ascertain that your Betta is in need of medical care, that you have the appropriate treatment on hand in order to stop the progression of the disease in question. Timing is everything when it comes to treating any Betta fish disease.

Feel free to read the entire article or jump to the section below:

Betta Fish First Aid Kit | Betta Fish TreatmentsRecognizing Signs Of A Sick Betta FishIdentifying Common Betta Fish Diseases | Prevention

Create Your Betta Fish First Aid Kit

Like most pet owners you are likely to already be attached to your Betta fish which means that you are prepared to care for it like you would any other pet, this means that you should always have a first aid kit handy for your fish. It may sound absurd to create a first aid kit for a Betta fish but the truth of the matter is that the medications most often required to treat Betta fish diseases are not available in most pet stores.

If the time comes that your Betta fish is ill we have already discussed the importance of timing and this means that mail order medication for your fish’s treatment may take too long to arrive in order to treat your fish before it expires. As a responsible Betta fish owner you should always have a basic first aid kit available to treat the most common Betta fish diseases.

How to Choose the Best Betta Fish Tank

What Should Be Included In A Betta First Aid Kit?

To make things simple a number of Betta fish experts actually sell pre-made Betta fish first aid kits that can be purchased online; however, if you choose to put together your own first aid kit you should think about including the following products:

BettaZing Or Bettafix

Editor’s Pick

BettaZing and BettaFix are anti-parasitic, anti-fungal and anti-protozoan medications that are great when used as a preventative medication to prevent the development of clamped fins or velvet fins. This medication should be applied as a preventative measure any time you acclimate a Betta to a new environment or anytime you add a new Betta fish to your tank.



Editor’s Pick
Kanaplex Branded KanamycinKanaplex Branded Kanamycin

Most top of the line fish stores will carry Kanamycin, an antibiotic that is most commonly used for more serious bacterial infections that your Betta fish may contract.


Tetracyclin is available from a number of pet stores and is also used as an antibiotic to treat bacterial infections. Where Kanamycin is used to treat more serious bacterial infections, Tetracyclin is used more often for less serious bacterial infections.


Ampicillin is another antibiotic worth carrying in your Betta fish first aid kit and is available in specialty fish stores as well as online. Ampicillin is used for gram positive infections, some gram negative infections and pop-eye.

Jungle Fungus Eliminator

Editor’s Pick
Jungle Fungus ClearJungle Fungus Clear

Jungle Fungus Eliminator is an anti-fungal treatment that can be purchased online or from fish specialty stores. This treatment is generally used for a number of fungus infections and is particularly useful to keep on hand for any Betta fish owner.

Maracin 1 and Maracin 2

Maracin 1 and Maracin 2 come in hard tablet form and are both anti-fungal and antibiotic treatments. These medications are utilized when your Betta fish has contracted a mild infection like fin rot but they are not as effective as some of the other medications listed when it comes to the more serious infections.

How To Treat A Sick Betta Fish

Chris Simms from Aquatic Central in San Francisco, CA, explains how to treat a sick Betta fish. You need to identify the illness (fungal ailment) and administer a treatment (curing the fungus).

Recognizing Signs Of A Sick Betta Fish

Green betta fish swimmingThe first step in treating any Betta fish disease is to recognize when a Betta fish is sick, this can be particularly difficult due to the limited communication that Betta fish can provide to their owners.

There are, however, behaviors that healthy Betta fish exhibit and the first sign of a potentially sick Betta fish is a change in these behaviors. Below are some signs that you should watch for that may suggest a sick Betta fish:

  • A fish that stays at the surface of the water in the corner of its tank.
  • A fish that lies at the bottom of the tank and only comes to the surface to breathe.
  • A fish that does not eat, does not show an “excited” reaction to being fed or a fish that spits out its food. It should be noted that some Betta fish pellet food can come in pellets that may be too large for your Betta fish, a healthy Betta may spit these out and wait for them to become soggy before trying to consume them a second time – this does not indicate a sick fish.
  • A fish that appears to have “lost” its color or appears to be a much less vibrant colorful shade.
  • A fish that appears to be scratching itself by rubbing against items in its tank.
  • A fish that appears to have unusual sores or markings on its body that were not present previously.
  • A fish whose tail or fins are no longer spread out and have the appearance of being unhealthy, closed or clumped together.
  • A fish with gills that do not close completely due to inflammation, inflammation can also cause the gills to appear red in color.
  • Swollen or protruding eyes.
  • A swollen stomach or “hollow” appearing stomach.
  • Raised scales that give your Betta the appearance of having a prickly texture.

A Betta fish that exhibits any of these signs should always be isolated from any other fish if it is being kept in a community aquarium because a number of common Betta fish diseases can be easily communicated from one fish to another. Having a disease pass from one fish to another is not only unfortunate for the fish involved and more expensive to treat but it is also a way for the disease to be contracted a second time by a fish that has already been effectively treated.

If you have a Betta fish that has become ill that is kept in a community tank make sure that you do keep an eye on other fish in the tank for any signs of the disease in question being contracted by them.

ALWAYS wash your hands with an antibacterial soap if you handle a fish that has any type of illness or disease to ensure that you do not spread the disease from one fish to another – not to mention that this is the sanitary thing to do whenever you handle your fish.

Identifying Common Betta Fish Diseases

Only a licensed veterinarian or fish expert can identify particular Betta fish diseases accurately in order to treat them; however, a number of Betta fish diseases are so common that they can be readily identified by someone who has experienced them before or knows what to look for. With that said however, this information should not be taken as professional advice or utilized for diagnosis to treat a sick Betta fish.

Fin Rot And Tail Rot

Fin rot and tail rot are often classified together however, they may or may not both occur together. Tail or fin rot tend to be contracted by a Betta fish through contact with dirty water so it is important to ensure that you maintain a clean and healthy Betta fish tank. Fortunately for the Betta fish that contracts tail or fin rot damage done to the fins or tail is repairable if treatment is issued in a timely manner and fin and tail tissue will regrow (although it may not be as resplendent as it previously was.)

A fish with fin or tail rot will exhibit a variety of symptoms but the most obvious are clumped fins or tail tissue or fin or tail tissue that appears to be disintegrating and disappearing little by little. This type of Betta fish disease should be treated with Ampicillin or Tetracycline and your Betta fish tank should be thoroughly cleaned and clean water should be used in the new tank. Ensure to treat the new water before filling the tank.

A fungus eliminator should also be utilized in the new tank to ensure that your Betta begins recovery. It is important to be consistent with tank cleaning and water change when treating fin or tail rot, this should be done once every three days or so with medication being added with each water change. Once your Betta fish no longer shows signs of losing tissue on their tail or fins and begins to show signs of new growth you can resume a normal tank cleaning schedule.


Ich may sound funny but there is nothing funny about this parasite! This parasite is most commonly contracted by your fish through frozen live food and most commonly presents as small white dots on your fish’s body, head, tail and fins. Ich can be prevented by ensuring that you add a small amount of aquarium salt and Aquarisol to your Betta fish tank when maintaining your tank; however, if your fish does contract this parasite it should be treated quickly. Fishes with ich not only present with small white dots but they also appear to be scratching themselves against items in the tank and may become less active than normal. Ich is an extremely contagious parasite and if one fish in a community tank has it there is an extremely high likelihood that other fish have it or will develop it so you should always treat the entire tank. Ich is most commonly treated by raising the temperature of the Betta fish tank; however, this can only be successfully done in tanks lager than 5 gallons since smaller tanks can quickly overheat killing your Betta fish. In larger tanks, temperatures of 85 degrees will quickly kill off the ich parasite. If heating the tank is not an option because of a smaller tank you should completely clean your tank, replace all water in the tank and treat with Aquarisol and aquarium salt. It is also commonly recommended to put your Betta fish in a holding container after cleaning the smaller tank and raising the temperature of the water to 85 degrees to kill any remaining parasites without risking overheating your Betta fish.

Fungal Infections

Fungus is common in tanks that are not treated with salt and Aquarisol when water is added. Once a single fish in a community tank contracts a fungal infection there is a high likelihood that another fish may also contract the fungal infection so it should be treated quickly when spotted. Betta fish that have fungal infections can appear to be a much more pale hue of their normal color, they may not be as active as they usually are and their fins may have a clumped appearance. A fish with a fungal infection can have patches of a white cotton-like appearance on their body. Eliminating fungus should begin with a full water change and treatment of the new water with a fungus eliminator, this type of medication will cause the water to change to a gold-like color, this is normal. Every three days the water in the tank should be replaced and a new dose of fungus eliminator should be administered. Once all visible signs of the fungal infection have disappeared ensure that you treat your tank with BettaZing or Bettamax to treat any trace signs of the fungal infection that may remain.


Popeye is one of the more noticeable diseases in Betta fish because as its name suggests, a fish with this disease will appear to have one or both eyes protruding from the head. Most commonly popeye develops from dirty tank water because it is a bacterial infection; however, popeye can also be the result of a much more serious illness. Most commonly when popeye does not respond to treatment it is a symptom of a much more serious disease like tuberculosis which is incurable and your Betta fish will be unable to survive. For the fish that has contracted popeye as a result of dirty tank water however, treatment can quickly remedy the bulging eyes that result from this disease. Treatment for popeye should be immediate in order to prevent any long-term damage or loss of sight in your fish. To treat popeye clean your tank and do a complete water change and add Ampicillin to the clean water. Clean water should be changed every three days and medication should continue to be added until one week after your fish’s popeye symptoms disappear.

Advanced Fin And Body Rot

Advanced fin and body rot is a case of regular fin rot that goes on for far too long. When regular fin rot is not treated or when it progresses extremely quickly it can be extremely difficult to stop. A fish with this disease will experience a loss of fin and body tissue as the rot progresses. Once the rot progresses on to body tissues there is very little that you can do to help your fish as the bacteria quickly eats your fish alive. In cases of extreme fin or body rot you may begin to see small bones protruding from your fish’s body. If the affected fish is not treated in time they will die quickly but this death likely causes the fish to suffer a lot of pain. It is occasionally possible to control the progress of advanced rot and the fish can continue to live while being treated.

Stopping advanced fin and body rot is difficult and you will need to completely change your fish’s water and combine a number of medications designed to treat fin rot. In cases of severe rot you may want to over medicate the water and then continue cleaning your fish’s water every three days adding new medication each time. Once your fish shows new growth in the fins and on the body you can switch to a medication designed to prevent bacteria from growing in the water again.


Velvet is a parasite that can be prevented completely by adding aquarium salt and water conditioner to your fish’s tank. Velvet is particularly contagious and if you have shared aquarium nets between tanks and have a case of velvet, you will want to ensure that you treat all of your fish for velvet. Velvet is completely treatable but it can be difficult to see in your fish. In order to check your fish for velvet you will want to shine a flashlight on your betta and if they have velvet you will see a fine mist over their body that looks gold or rusty in color. Betta fish that have velvet will clamp their fins to their body, will lose its color, will not eat normally and they will scratch against the gravel of the tank.

Velvet is a parasite and it can be treated. If you have a number of fish in a tank and one shows signs of velvet, it is best to treat all of the fish due to how contagious velvet is. A medication called BettaZing is effective at eliminating velvet completely.


Dropsy is seen often in betta fish and it is particularly fatal. Dropsy is most often contracted through the feeding of live food. Not a lot is known about dropsy other than the fact that it comes from feeding contaminated food. A betta fish with dropsy will present with raised scales as a result of a buildup of fluid underneath the fish’s scales. The buildup of fluid is the result of kidney failure and just as with any animal, once the betta fish’s kidneys fail, the fish will die. The bacteria that cause dropsy are very contagious and it is these bacteria that cause kidney failure. Spotting dropsy in your betta fish is relatively easy, your fish will have puffed out scales that look similar to pine cones and it may also appear to have a big bloated stomach.

There really is no known cure for dropsy but a good preventative is to avoid feeding worms to bettas. It is important if you have a betta that presents with dropsy, that you keep it away from other fish.

Swim Bladder Disorder

Swim bladder disorder is not contagious but it is a common illness among betta fish that comes as the result of overfeeding. Young bettas and double tailed bettas are susceptible to this illness. The swim bladder of the fish is located between the belly and the spine of the fish. When the betta fish has a swim bladder that is too short they will not be able to swim horizontally. When a betta fish has a swim bladder that is swollen they will float on one side. Many times when fish have shorter swim bladders they will prefer to lie at the bottom of the tank because swimming is too difficult.

A betta fish with a swim bladder disorder can recover by themselves but it is also important to pay attention to how much food you are feeding your fish. You should know that swim bladder disorder does not hurt the fish and at any point it can recover from this condition so you should not kill your fish out of “mercy.”

External Parasites

It is possible for a betta fish to contract external parasites in the pet store or from the foot that they are being fed or from other fish being introduced to the tank. It is usually possible to see parasites by looking closely at your fish. In the case of some parasites like anchor worms, you will have no problem spotting them. A fish that has external parasites will show symptoms of needing to scratch itself against anything it can find and it will not behave as it normally would showing signs of being uncomfortable in its tank.

If your betta fish shows signs of external parasites you will want to change out 70% of your fish tank’s water. Changing out a percentage of your fish’s water will help to reduce the population of the parasites and their eggs but it will not remove them all completely so it is important to treat the remaining water. After replenishing the water you will want to treat it with BettaZing, a product designed to clean the water and kill the remaining parasites and their eggs.

Betta Fish First Aid Kit Infographic

This infographic made by The Aquarium Guide summarizes many of the the items above as well as some additinonal solutions for how to help with your Betta’s diseases.

Betta Fish First Aid Kit Infographic

The Importance Of Prevention

Prevention is the most important part of Betta fish diseases because prevention is much easier than treating or trying to cure Betta fish diseases. Most Betta fish diseases require a large amount of work in order to save your Betta fish from succumbing to the disease that they have contracted, most often this involves cleaning the tank and replacing your Betta’s water once every three days in addition to the application of medication. In most cases Betta fish diseases are easily preventable by maintaining a clean tank and feeding a healthy diet. There are, however, occasions where a Betta fish is purchased with a pre-existing disease or condition and in this case treatment is required in addition to taking preventative measures in the future. It is important to note that while prevention is the preferred method of “treatment” it is not always possible but purchasing a Betta fish with a pre-existing condition does not mean that your fish is doomed to die. As it has already been mentioned, the majority of these diseases are completely curable when treated appropriately and often times purchasing the fish that appears to have a pre-existing disease may be the only chance it has at survival. If you feel up to the challenge of Betta fish first aid, why not give a sick Betta a chance and put your fish doctoring skills to work!

Learn more Betta fish facts and how to choose the right aquarium for your Betta fish.

Is your Betta fish showing signs of sickness?

Maybe someone else’s Betta is experiencing similar symptom’s and you can get answers and advice below. NOTE: While we have provided some information about common illnesses, we are not a certified fish doctor, so if you are experiencing issues with your Betta fish please contact your local pet store or seek professional help.

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Amy grew up in England and in the early 1990's moved to North Carolina where she completed a bachelors degree in Psychology in 2001. Amy's personal interest in writing was sparked by her love of reading fiction and her creative writing hobby. Amy is currently self employed as a freelance writer and web designer. When she is not working Amy can be found curled up with a good book and her black Labrador, Jet.

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I have a male beta, only owned him for about a month. This morning I noticed his gil stuck open on one side. I dont see any parasites, he is eating, and swimming around , not trying to hide or anything. Seems agitated though. He can flare just fine but one side just wont close all the way. It does look a little red but being that he has lots of red on him I’m not entirely sure if it’s natural. Any suggestions or info that might help?
My Betta has been home for about two weeks. I have him in a 2.2 gal tank with a plant and a house in it. He spends almost all his time glass surfing, and I turned off the filter because it seemed too powerful for him/to stress him out. I’m worried he has fin rot as one of his fins is shorter and more jagged than the others. Additionally, the small find right by his gills seem almost translucent. However, he is not lethargic at all and still eats readily.
I have two bettas, both are sick with different symptoms.
1. The first fish has symptoms of labored breathing, darting, slightly yellowing, lethargy, and ‘falling’ when he’s resting at the bottom of the tank, and resting vertically at the bottom.

2. The second fish has a faded dark coloring, floats and turns to the side at the top of the water (almost looks like he’s dead), labored breathing, and hides behind his heater.

They both have no trouble with eating however. Can anyone suggest what might be wrong and how I can help them? I’ve been trying to treat them for forever now and everything is so confusing and I can’t get them to get better.

I have had my betta for about four months and a couple days back I wasnt at home so my mom fed my fish ,she over fed him so he was bloated ,I fasted him till it went down ,but now I cant feed him as much as I used to because he will bloat ,why?
So we had our male betta fish for a couple days, and I always noticed that he would stay in the corner and looks discolored. Every time I go to school, my dad turns off the heater and the filter saying “its a waste of electricity”. The tank drops like 10 degrees Fahrenheit by the time I get home and turn everything back on. Could the temperature drops be the reason he’s like this?
Lyndsey Dunn
That is terrible for ANY fish. Please tell your father that he is essentially killing your betta fish. Bettas can do fine without a heater if they are kept in a warm room and the water temp doesn’t drop below 72. From my experience. But idealy they need to be in 74-80 degrees. But overall no fish can go through constant temp changes like that. I don’t have a link off hand. Just Google the water temp for bettas and please show him. They are tropical fish.
Ashley Mair
Hi carl,

Yes defentify! The temperature should be stable at all times. Then heater should not be turned off in the aquarium for that long and the temperature should not be dropping like that daily. It cause your fish a lot a stress, and be susceptible to getting diseases. The temperature drop can also cause shock to your fishy which can lead to death! Overall its just really bad for the betta fish the filter is not as important, you should tell your dad that the heater needs to be kept on at all times!

Best regards,

Hi Everyone, I left my male beta under the care of my father for 6 months. The day before I came back he started being super lethargic, isn’t eating, seems duller in color, and is laying at the bottom of the tank most of the day. How should I go about treating this? I already tried feeding him peas and he won’t bite at any food.
Please help! I have a male beta and he was doing great however a few days ago I realized that he was swimming funny. Almost as if he was bent in half and then he tried to swim after it. He also has a large dark spot on his side that was definitely NOT there a week ago. The spot if rapidly getting bigger and has migrated to his other side within a day. I don’t know what else to do and I desperately want to help Joey before it’s too late. He still will eat just fine. He has opted for resting in his gummy plants a lot more now though.
Please help I have no idea what to do and I’m desperate! I have a male beta and he’s always been great until recently I realized that he was swimming really weird. Almost lie he had bent in half and was trying to swim after. Also he had a very large rapidly growing dark spot on his side that was definitely NOT there a week ago. Since yesterday it has already migrated to part of the other side of his body. He still wants to eat so that’s not a problem but he isn’t getting around well and is choosing to sit in his gummy plant a lot more often. Please if anyone has answers I need them!!!
Lyndsey Dunn
Hello have you had any luck with your betta? It sounds like he could be constipated. Epsolm salt can fish that. But in general using any of the above treatments is worth trying. Get epsolm salt, aquarium salt. Betta fix. Stress coat. All in pet stores.
Kerry Dummett
How many times do I put epsom salt in my betta fish tank its a 3 litre tank how much do I put in and how do I make it up
Xela Klockow
I just recently moved my Betta with me to college about a few months ago and he was perfectly fine and happy when he got here but recently all he does is sit at the top of the tank in the corner and barely eats.
Lyndsey Dunn
You can try some krill or freez dried blood worms to encourage feeding and excitement
Emily Datema
my betta fish doesn’t seem to be showing any signs of these disease listed other than he just isn’t as active and tends to lay at the bottom of the tank but will show excitment to feeding and when I come over to the tank. he still does swim around the tank on his own just doesn’t do it as often as he used to. Just wondering what this could be of if it is just old age and hes slowing down.
Can I use amoxicillin for pop eye? I cannot afford ampicillin right now, as I have lost my job. It is quite expensive. However, I have a brand new bottle of human amoxicillin. It is 500 mg capsules that are easily broken open. If I can use this, what is the dosage? It is one beta fish in a 1.5 gallon tank. I just purchased a 5 gallon tank but haven’t moved him yet due to the pop eye. I don’t want to add any stress due to the new tank.
Lyndsey Dunn
Does anyone know what causes Betas to suddenly die and loose all pigmentations? My fish Young Nickel slowly stopped eating the amounts he used too. I fed him last night, and today I went to feed him and he has passed. He was a dark red fish but when I found him he was nearly all white. He has a 5 gallon which I recently (a month ago) put two suckers and a moss ball with him. I tried giving him a different kind of food which I also tried with my other Beta Nick Klaus. Klaus is fine but the snails in his aquarium also died. I am not sure what is wrong, they have separate aquariums, I change there filters out frequently, also the water, I even put water conditioner in there. Any info given would be much appreciated.
They lose their pigmentation as a result of dying. I don’t think it’s related to why he died. All they do fish die and then lose their coloring. They lose their pigmentation as a result of dying.
my bettas gill is popped out on one side, it’s not protruding on the other side, making him look swollen/lopsided when viewing him head on or from above. he is a red dragon half-moon and i can’t tell if theres any lesions or discoloration on him because of his coloring 🙁
our Beta at work has the same issue. I didn’t think i noticed it before.

Does anybody have any info on this issue?

aaysha afshan
that is because it has been in front of the mirror or has seen another fish or beta fish where it seem to be angry the other does not open because it is not able to
Hi, I believe my fish has internal parasites. She is very bloated and is not pooping. She wouldn’t eat a pea, and fasting did not work, so I am using a product called microbe lift herbtana. It’s very hard to measure since she is in a one gallon tank due to her having trouble getting to the surface. Anyways the reason I believe it is internal parasites is prior to this her poop was long white almost clear strings while in her 3 gallon tank. And I even noticed a small white string hanging from her. My question is, should I be doing water changes every day so the water doesn’t get overloaded with this medicine since I’m using it everyday(three days so far and no progress)… and secondly is there a better treatment method I can/should be doing for her? I’m getting so frustrated. Wish I could load a picture so you all can see her but she is huge in her middle. I don’t think it’s dropsy bc she still wants to eat and will still follow my finger if I pressure her long enough. Please help me if you have any suggestions or treatment methods. Thanks!
Please help! My betta fish is about 3 years old and all he does is stay at the bottom, does not come up to eat anymore, is not excited for anything, and he looks miserable. Ever scene we moved from my moms to my dads he’s been acting like this. he has a 5 gallon tank, 3 plants, and a rock. I’m scared, I love Berry and I don’t know what to do
hey! I don’t know if I’m too late, but seachem has a product called garlic guard that helps make food more appealing. Mysis shrimp is also good for picky eaters. Is Berry’s stomach bloated or sunken? Do you see raised scales, parasites, etc? Velvet is very fatal and spreads quickly so turn off all the lights, and shine a flashlight over him or her. Maybe he or she is stressed. Stress also kills fishes, and you said you just moved him? Fish can get stressed after transportation. I use seachem’s stress guard and it works really well. I really hope everything turns out okay.
We recently moved from an apartment to a house and I think this stressed our Buddy out big time! He developed fin rot, was suuuper lethargic, and he was literally laying sideways on the bottom of the tank. I moved him to a small, 1-gallon quarantine tank and started him on Erythromycin… after about 2 days, he was looking better. I kept him in the quarantine tank for about a week (maybe even 10 days) with these antibiotics and it helped him immensely!! I cleaned his tank while he was in quarantine, added aquarium salts, and moved his tank to our bedroom where it’s a little more “chill”. He’s been doing much better since!!
I wanted to put a little fact out there that I wish I’d have known sooner. I have a beautiful beta named earl. I love my fish n he truly loves me. I bought him a much larger round tank. It was awesome. Within 2 weeks earl was not acting like normal. It was so depressing. I’d bought him an exercise mirror in which u can see him get all happy to see it and new the container I keep it in is to side of his tank so he knows wen I’m reaching for it that he gets it soon.
Then he just wasnt. Wasn’t excited for anything. Good appetite tho. But just is seriously depressed. I finally figured out that fish cannot see out of round tanks. The same as we can often have issue seeing them in through a round tank. Earl was happier the same hour wen I put him back in his old octagon tank. After really looking into it it has been quoted that fish owners that own round tank shud get in trouble. I personally feel that the companies that makes round tanks shud be the one. You cant tell me they dont know this small fact
I believe I’ve heard it can cause blindness eventually.
That might depend on what kind of tank you get and whether or not they’re used to it. Bowls are also rounded, and the acrylic half-moon shaped bowl my kid’s in only causes him problems on the flat side.
Vylet Girlie
I have to say that we had to buy a round tank for our little better Mizuchi, he is quite ill right now, but we have had him just shy of 3 years and have been through a lot with him with all kinds of different things. However, in the beginning we went through several tanks because Mizu was constantly glass surfing and flaring up at his reflection, and wouldn’t stop for anything. We would try different lighting, put different backgrounds up on the glass but to no avail. The round tank we found was wonderful because he was no longer constantly panicked and it came with a filter that want overwhelming for him, we had to baffle it still with a lead hammock because he would get very upset with to strong of a flow. My fish doesn’t appear blind or to have any issues related to the tank anyway, for Mizuchi anyway, it was a fit.
HELP! My sons 1 year old Betta has white discoloration on one eye. My son was devastated last week when Flare was lathargic. It’s a week later and now the eye. Please provide any HELP. It hurts so much to see him so broken hearted.
I would do a partial water change. Sometimes fish get cloudy eyes from being in dirty water. It also could be a symptom of something bigger. Cloudy eyes and lethargy are symptoms of many fish illnesses. Let me know any more developments.
Our young betta is in a 20 gallon community tank and has been doing well. A few days ago, she had two cloudy eyes. We researched everything and checked water parameters which were good with a higher pH of 7.6. We completed 25% water changes three days in a row. Her eyes look a little better but she is now hiding more, running into plants, appears dull in color, and appears to have irritated gills. All of our other fish are acting normally (5 neons, glowlight tetra, 2 rasboras, and cory catfish) We treated with Melafix tonight. Are we missing a bigger diagnosis? Should we be treating her differently?
Hi! I got a betta that was abandoned in the appartement of my girlfriend by the last tenant. It was in poor shape, his fins and tail are quite deteriorated because its tank hadn’t been cleaned for sooo long. I chanded water and feed him normaly while treating him with betafix daily for a month now but he seems to be very ill lately. He always hangs out in the bottom of the tank and swims rarely but when he does he seems to go crazy and moves fast and erratically sometimes hitting in his surroundings. His skin looked like it was getting better but now it looks clumped again and bubbly near the tail. I don’t really know what to do, since i never had a betta before. 🙁 Please help me to make him get better.
Hi! Hope I’m not too late. What shape aquarium is the fish in? These symptoms are common of one in a round bowl. They can’t see, so they become lethargic, or spastic. Bubbles near the tail could be a symptom of finrot. I would do another water change, and dose with seachem’s stress guard. It helps the slime coat of fish (both marine and fresh) and can help immune systems. Good luck
I did a tank change when we got new guppies for our male betta. we transferred our female betta from a divided tank from the male to her own tank. I treated the water like to the petstore instructed. my female betta now has white stuff all over her and she is breathing hard at the bottom. not swimming around or active like normal. she comes up to the surface to get air and then sinks back down. I’m going to try to leave work early and take her to the petstore to see what I can do for her. any ideas?
I would take what the pet store says with a grain of salt.. They are trying to sell their product to you and are often very misinformed. It sounds like velvet to me, or a fungus. I don’t know many fungus or velvet treatments, but I’m sure you can find some good quality ones by looking it up.
That’s ick. White stuff? Ick. You need to treat with Jungle Ick Cure for best results.
Desiree Crance
I have a question I have had my baby Walter for a year now and fed him when supposed to and I came home and his body is peeling what am I supposed to do
peeling body is one of the early stages of velvet, if I recall correctly. Velvet is parasitic.
Fish don’t “peel,” if he’s shedding his slime coat, there’s a problem. Could be damage from his toys/decor, could be stress or illness. Grab some Stress Coat and do a dose with a 50-75% water change.
William Farrell
I forgot to add, his color is normal and his body always looks wet. His gills don’t seem to be struggling
William Farrell
I have had a male betta for about a year. For almost all of that time he was in a 1 gal bowl and was fine. About a month ago I put him in a 4 gal bowl with some plants at the bottom, a floating water lettuce and a mystery snail. He was the fine for about 3 weeks. Four days ago he was fine. He came up to me when he saw me, he ate eagerly and he swam normally. The next day, I found him laying on the water lettuce, about half of his body was out of the water. I put him in the water and he got back on to the water lettuce. That is how he has been for 3 days, except for when I slide him into the water. When he is in the water, he swims rapidly from side to side, before squirming back onto the water lettuce. He also does not eat. The fish guy I bought him from has no idea what is wrong, he has never seen this behavior in his fish before.
Fish bowls cause blindness and spastic activity in fish. May even drive them insane. I’d move to a rectangular tank
What are your sources? You keep saying it, but not backing it up.
My betta fish, Freddy was doing perfectly fine. But now he seems less excited about food, and is staying at the top more often. He seems to have VERY TINy white specks on him and under his mouth area is kind of green. He is a blue and red halfmoon betta fish. Please help, he is my 5th betta fish
Marissa Santos
Have you tried treating him for Ich?
My male veiltail beta fish has been a bit problematic since I got him, however now he has something I can’t figure out what it is. He already started to get minor split fins, but now he has a few peices of fins that are completely white. Not only that but the top fin on his back is completely white, and the area of his body that the fin is on is pale red, which is super noticeable because he’s dark blue. I’m not sure what to do, I’ve only had him for 5 months and I’d like him to live his few years out fully. Yknow? I just don’t want him to die so soon. If anyone knows what this is and how to treat it please let me know.
This is finrot, I think